Back to Basics: Thread Sketching Tutorial
Have you ever attempted linework embroidery, but found yourself frustrated by curves that are never smooth enough? Or shapes that distort no matter how carefully you stitch them?
Well, grab your needle and thread, because here I’ll be giving a step by step tutorial on how you can achieve a beautiful pencil sketched appearance that’ll make people stop and say.. “I can’t believe that’s thread!”
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How this all came about is a bit of a strange happenstance.. You see, the phrase “thread sketching” actually originated from a follower when they saw my Little Bear project, and their comment was like a light bulb moment for me.. sketching with thread, how cool is that?! I became obsessed with the concept, and funny enough, shortly after revealing my thread sketched Little Bear, I was actually featured (#12) in an article for the 30 Best Black & White Illustration Ideas You Should Check.
The fact that anyone could mistake my linework for an illustration was equal parts incredible and inspiring, but it’s not as simple as you’d think to get those perfectly smooth, thin lines. It takes precision… a LOT of it, but with a little bit of practice and patience it quickly becomes one of the most satisfying embroidery techniques, allowing you to go with the flow and bring your design to life with just a single spool of thread.
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**Please Note: I'm a part of the Amazon affiliate program, and some of the links in this post are affiliate links. That means I might earn a small commission if you click them and buy something, but it doesn't cost you anything extra! It's just a way to help support me and my site as a small artist. Okay, now back to the tutorial!
All you need are a few simple supplies and a bit of sketchy inspiration.
It’s no secret that I often opt for the more expensive embroidery materials (a bit of a guilty pleasure of mine), but sketching with thread is one of the few exceptions. It demands more inspiration than anything, and you’ll likely find that you already have everything you need in your current stash!
The Supplies:
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Kona Cotton fabric gives a nice, crisp contrast to black thread, and makes a great base for any linework/thread sketching. I recommend using two layers doubled up in your hoop, as this provides stability for your stitches, helps prevent puckering, hides your thread from showing through, and will also make the color of your fabric more prominent, giving your piece a more polished look overall.
I personally use pure white Kona, but any neutral shade of white or cream should provide a nice ‘illustrated’ look to your design. -
The size of your needle is more important than the brand, but I’ve been using John James needles for a long time now and swear by them. Not only are they incredibly sharp, but their size 10 (my most used size for single strand work) comes in a convenient little 6 pack.
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For any thread sketching or detailed linework, I strongly recommend using sewing thread. It’s thinner than DMC’s #310, doesn’t have a fuzzy appearance, and will allow you to create extremely precise details in your embroidery. I used Gutermann brand for all of the black stitching on The Giving Tree and Little Bear.
Now usually I stitch all my projects in my beloved Evertite Stretcher Bars, but for this tutorial I’ll be stitching in a basic plastic hoop. As for transferring detailed linework designs, I normally go with Vilene Water Soluble Stabilizer and Sticker Paper Sheets to prevent the design from distorting when stretching the fabric, but honestly you can stitch in any hoop and transfer your design in whatever method works best for you, as long as you ensure the fabric is stretched drum tight.
If you struggle with keeping your fabric taut, I highly recommend wrapping your hoop with some Edmunds No-Slip Hoop Tape. It’s slightly tacky and will help prevent your fabric from loosening while you work!
Understanding your thread is half the battle.
Each type of thread behaves a little differently, and Gutermann sewing thread is no exception. For starters, it’s slippery.. surprisingly so! I’ll never forget how frustrating my first experience was. No matter what I tried, my thread just kept sliding off my needle and it seemed like there was nothing I could do about it.. But over time I began gripping the thread with my fingers as I pulled my stitches through, and eventually this small adjustment kept my thread in place.
The next lesson I learned was that Gutermann can be split, but you really shouldn’t… You see, when you split a thin sewing thread like Gutermann, it creates a quite noticeable joint, leaving you with more of a typical “dashed” look, rather than a seamless line. I’ve spent countless hours thinking maybe my split just wasn’t good enough, and while that might be true, I promise you’ll have a much easier time achieving a smoother outcome if you avoid splitting Gutermann sewing thread altogether.
Take a look at the photos above.
You’ll notice that I don’t split the thread when bringing the needle down for the second stitch. Instead I bring my needle down through the previous hole - This is called a “Backstitch.” Now normally I don’t use backstitches when working with six-strand embroidery floss because it’ll actually create the ‘dashed’ look I mentioned. However, backstitches do the exact opposite with Gutermann, and will provide you with smooth, seamless lines!
Learning this truly felt like gaining a superpower, and it’s made me want to further explore how other stitches might behave depending on the type of thread I’m using.
Short stitches create curvier curves.
Since Gutermann doesn’t lend itself well to blending into previous stitches, it can be even harder to achieve smooth curves, but don’t let that stop you ..the secret to curvier curves lies within the length of your stitches!
They need to be short.. and I do mean SHORT - To the point where they’re almost microscopic when you begin the curve.
Take the photos above for example - You can see how I use smaller stitches on the tightest part at the start of the curve, lengthen the stitches slowly as I reach the center, and shorten the stitches again on the tightest part at the end of the curve. When unsure, “The tighter the curve, the shorter your stitches,” is a good rule of thumb to follow.
Since we’ve covered curves, let’s talk about fills.
In my opinion, there’s really no right or wrong way to fill spaces when thread sketching. In fact, I think trying out different fills can be quite fun and really help give the project a bit of character! However, I understand there are times when you may want to ensure your fill doesn’t cause the design to distort. To prevent this, you simply need to outline your shape first and then fill it in after!
Using this method will help prevent the image from changing, while also providing a nice fill to your design.
Tip: If you’re extra picky about consistent lines like me, then I’d also recommend that you avoid bringing your needle down into your outline stitches when filling. This has a tendency to slightly pull your outline thread, which can cause a subtle bend in your shape. In the third photo above you can see how I push my needle down beneath my outline stitch instead of through it - This is why! ;]
..now we’re thread sketching!
With so many different ways to create embroidery line art, there really is no wrong way to sketch with thread, but hopefully this tutorial has helped make it slightly less intimidating. Everyone has to start somewhere, so why not here.. why not now? ..the outcome just might surprise you!
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A Note from the Author:
As always, a sincere thank you to anyone who’s read this far; I hope you enjoyed the first Back to Basics post! If you found this information useful and you want to help support the blog, there’s a “Buy Me A Coffee” link below where you can donate, or you can find prints and stickers in the SHOP. Of course, any and all shares to social media are another a great way to help provide support and are immensely appreciated.
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Was this topic helpful to you? Did it inspire you to start thread sketching? ..I’d love to know!
